Design for the elite: highlights of the Paris Couture shows

Design for the elite: highlights of the Paris Couture shows

After a one-week break according to the Men-fashion shows Kehrten. Paris back to experience the haute couture - an event at which tailor -made collections are presented and finally sold to the wealthiest customers in the world.

a changed timetable for autumn 2025

The official timetable for autumn 2025 seemed easier than usual. Well -known labels such as Valentino, which only organizes a coutureshow once a year, were missing, and Dior, whose new creative director Jonathan Anderson was only appointed a month ago. Many houses are also waiting for the official catwalk debuts of their new designers in September, including Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Loewe and Bottega Veneta. But there were also positive highlights.

Maison Margiela: A new chapter

The first appearance of Glenn Martens as a creative director of Maison Margiela was an impressive debut. Faithful Margiela's philosophy of upcycling and reinterpretation received reused materials a new life, including leather jackets that were turned to a weathered, decaying finish. A bodycon dress was sewn from printing of molded parts and wallpaper and showed raw, fringed edges, combined with a mask-like creation made of paper mache. Several silhouettes were wrapped in rigid, transparent plastic shells, sometimes covered with faces decorated with gemstones.

Chanel: Anglomania in perfection

Chanel presented the last collection that was designed by his internal studio, which is responsible for the designs of the French Luxury House since the departure of creative director Virginie Viad in June 2024. Before the arrival of her successor Mathieu Blazy, who will present his first collection this autumn, the collection was presented in a quieter part of the Grand Palais, where the guests were asked by a side entrance.

Here the original couture salon was recovered by founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, equipped with a soft cream-colored carpet, padded seating, mirror walls and gently illuminated interiors. There was a gold wheat neck and a name tag on each seat - also for Lorde, which was sitting next to Gracie Abrams, Naomi Campbell and Caroline by Monaco.

The collection was inspired by Chloe's lifelong passion for British culture, especially the Scottish Highlands, where she first discovered tweed during her ten -year romance with Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster. The outstanding looks included a chart -colored tweed jacket, combined with a baby blue satin skirt; A black satin owner dress that was cinched with a utility belt and folding bags; as well as a double buttoned tweed coat that was worn with top inserts over a tiered wrinkle skirt.

"It was incredibly graceful and airy ... like a fairy tale ... paired with very structured shoulders," said Caroline de Maigret, a model and long -time muse of the brand, after the show at CNN. "It was a powerful but graceful woman - and sometimes it was almost gothic."

Balenciaga: A farewell with style

Designer Demna, who only appears with his first name, presented his last collection for Balenciaga before moving to Gucci. In order to mark the end of his ten -year term in the house, numerous well -known faces appeared to support, including Naomi Watts, Nicole Kidman, Alexis Stone (Morticia Addams, including "Thing" on the shoulder), Patrick Schwarzenegger, Katy Perry and Lauren Sánchez Bezo Piccioli.

On the catwalk, Kim Kardashian appeared in a white silk dress that was inspired by the dress that Elizabeth Taylor wore in 1958 in the film "The cat on the hot tin roof", combined with earrings that once belonged. The French actress Isabelle Huppert, a long -time ambassador of the brand, also ran on the show.

Inspired by the "Dress Codes of the Bourgeoisie", as Demna explained in the show notes, the collection of dotted coat dresses with exaggerated satin reverses, a sculptural black leather dress with an hourglass silhouette and a cocksleep ensemble, included in a design by founder Cristóbal Balenciaga from the year 1967 was based. Waxed flower patterns, an allusion to the tablecloths by Demas Grandmutter and on his early work at Vetements, appeared in the form of a tailored, floor -length rock suit.

Giambattista Valli: An Italian in Paris

The Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli connected two milestones in one day: after his appointment to the Officier de l’Ordre des Arts et des lettre, at a medal ceremony in his headquarters, he presented his latest skin couture collection with voluminous sorgle migration, which were decorated with artfully embroidered flowers and "colors and food would like to ", as the designer said during the presentation to CNN, which he chose this season instead of a catwalking show. France's Minister of Culture, Rachida Dati.

Valli expressed the award: "It is an extraordinary recognition." He added: "It is beautiful to be honored by a country that is part of my life - a country that gave me a voice and taught me so much."