Mode och politik samlas på Paris Men's Fashion Week

Mode och politik samlas på Paris Men's Fashion Week

The Paris Fashion Week for men's fashion began one day after the second inauguration of US President Donald Trump and in the course of the growing influence of the populist right in France. Under dessa omständigheter kan fokus på kläder initialt verka trivialt.

sociala frågor i fokus

Ändå visade designarna sitt engagemang för större sociala frågor under hela veckan. They addressed inclusivity, protection and freedom and messengers for the autumn winter 2025 season a platform to both relax and present ideas to deal with the current social climate.

av Willy Chavarria till Egonlab till Comme des Garçons Homme Plus skickades meddelanden om enhet och acceptans över catwalks. Carole Boinet, director of the French cultural magazine Les Inrockuptibles, told CNN: "If the French population feels more and more powerless in view of the government, the soft power of fashion, as industrial and art, lies in its ability to produce new discourses and pictures and influence other industries."

Modernt arbetskläder tolkade om

På catwalks firade arbetskläderna ett comeback, tolkade och slogs samman med moderna garderober. Hairy models in checkered shirts and raw denim fabrics ran over the catwalk of Junya Watanabe and reminded of the 2010 hipster aesthetics, which was found in youth subcultures and became a global phenomenon.

But it was the "good old work clothes that was originally produced for forest workers", as noted in the show notes that the Japanese designer had in mind. Samlingen återspeglade säsongens ämnen: naturens och funktionaliteten i ytterkläderna.

At Louis Vuitton, the creative director of men's fashion, Pharrell Williams, worked with Nigo, the designer of Kenzo and founder of the Japanese brand A Bathing Ape. De designade en samling som kombinerade arbetskläder och sportkläder. Inspired by the practical wardrobes of engineers, chefs and gardeners, the clothes included an indigo-blue, double buttoned denim jacket, a striped box-cut ensemble and a baby-colored sleeveless blouson jacket, which was also elegant and practical at the same time.

en scen för protest

Under veckan använde designers sina plattformar för att göra politiska och sociala uttalanden. The designer Willy Chavarria, who is based in New York,, winner of the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award, presented his collection for the first time in Paris to celebrate the tenth anniversary of his label of the same name. In the baroque backdrop of the American cathedral, he showed sculptural, reworked tailoring pieces, which were again inspired by his Mexican-American background and appeared in a range of gold, plum and burgundy.

Som Chavarria berättade för CNN var fokus för hans samling i centrum för motståndskraft och motstånd. He wanted to formulate a "message for human dignity and equality" and emphasized: "It is important that we come together to keep our rights as a citizen, as immigrants, as LGBTQ people and as women, because we are all very attacked."

The creative duo Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix behind the gender -neutral label Egonlab presented playful Victorian accents and presented clothing that challenged traditional masculinity. Bakom kulisserna förklarade designarna sitt fokus på marginaliserade samhällen. "Minoriteter attackeras systematiskt över hela världen", sade de, uppmanade "att förena minoriteter och slåss mot ojämlikhet."

mode- och krigsprotest

Vid Comme des Garçons Homme Plus behandlade den japanska designern Rei Kawakubo ämnet krig. Din samling med titeln "To Hell With War" presenterade dekonstruerade militära grunder, trasiga khaki -uniformer och militära stövlar. Models wore newly interpreted helmets that were decorated with flowers and reminded of the Flower power movement of the 1960s and 1970s, in which protesting positive values such as peace and love put in the foreground in their struggle for freedom.

Charles Jeffrey, grundaren av London modehuset Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, inspirerades av Weimar -kabareterna i Berlin. With exaggerated stage make-up, homoerotic, banana-shaped accessories and a shell-like effect on the clothing, the designer-who opened the show in high-heels and spoke to the audience-embodied the roots of his brand in nightlife culture. For Jeffrey it was "an opportunity to bring people together ... when right -wing governments say: 'There are only two genders' ... we are a variety of things."

En titt bakom kulisserna på mode

Some designers chose an introspective approach and focused on the stories that are embedded in clothing and tailor details, which are often overlooked in cameras. Dior's collection referred to the H-line that its founder Christian Dior designed for the autumn winter 1954-1955-a controversial silhouette at the time, since its flat form of some was perceived as inevitable. Models with dramatically covered eyes appeared in a cinematic setting, in the style of Stanley Kubrick's erotic psychodrama "Eyes Wide Shut" from 1999. The collection also experimented with contrasting volumes from wide male skirts to opera stuffs and grinding with tender pink.

Bianca Saunders, the first black British designer who won the renowned andam fashion price, looked at the tension between restriction and movement as well as between smoothness and strict. Skjortor skrynklade, sömmarna på byxorna vände och knutade sina vrister.

Inspired by Robert Longo's photography, which captures men and women in exaggerated, wounded movements, she noted that it inspired by “the very structural men's fashion that was pushed and pulled, and all this subtle turning of things ... the adherence to movement and slowness in the garment."

hantverk och experiment var också i fokus för Rick Owens show i Palais de Tokyo. Tro till hans stil förvrängda och överströms Owens form av kroppen och spelade radikalt med tekniker och strukturer. The "DracuCollar" jackets made of waxed leather, "Megacrust" jeans with a crust that is achieved by pressing bronze film and wax on Denim, and even Kempel, an environmentally friendly and subversive material that is also known as "dead hair". Hur ofta med Owens vet mode inga gränser.