Mada ir politika susirenka Paryžiaus vyrų mados savaitėje

Mada ir politika susirenka Paryžiaus vyrų mados savaitėje

The Paris Fashion Week for men's fashion began one day after the second inauguration of US President Donald Trump and in the course of the growing influence of the populist right in France. Tokiomis aplinkybėmis dėmesys drabužiams iš pradžių gali atrodyti nereikšminga.

Socialinės problemos dėmesio centre

Nepaisant to, dizaineriai visą savaitę parodė savo atsidavimą didesnėms socialinėms problemoms. Sie thematisierten Inklusivität, Schutz und Freiheit und boten für die Herbst-Winter 2025 Saison eine Plattform, um sowohl zu entspannen als auch Ideen zu präsentieren, um mit dem aktuellen gesellschaftlichen Klima umzugehen.

Willy Chavarria į Egonlab į „Comme des Garçons Homme Plus“ buvo išsiųsti vienybės ir priėmimo pranešimams ant šaligatvių. Carole Boinet, director of the French cultural magazine Les Inrockuptibles, told CNN: "If the French population feels more and more powerless in view of the government, the soft power of fashion, as industrial and art, lies in its ability to produce new discourses and pictures and influence other industries."

Moderne Arbeitsbekleidung Neu interpretiert

Ant takelių darbo drabužiai šventė sugrįžimą, iš naujo interpretuojami ir susijungė su šiuolaikinėmis spintelėmis. Hairy models in checkered shirts and raw denim fabrics ran over the catwalk of Junya Watanabe and reminded of the 2010 hipster aesthetics, which was found in youth subcultures and became a global phenomenon.

But it was the "good old work clothes that was originally produced for forest workers", as noted in the show notes that the Japanese designer had in mind. Kolekcija atspindėjo sezono temas: viršutinių drabužių pobūdis ir funkcionalumas.

At Louis Vuitton, the creative director of men's fashion, Pharrell Williams, worked with Nigo, the designer of Kenzo and founder of the Japanese brand A Bathing Ape. Jie suprojektavo kolekciją, kurioje derinami darbo drabužiai ir sportiniai drabužiai. Inspired by the practical wardrobes of engineers, chefs and gardeners, the clothes included an indigo-blue, double buttoned denim jacket, a striped box-cut ensemble and a baby-colored sleeveless blouson jacket, which was also elegant and practical at the same time.

Eine Bühne Für protestas

während der Woche Nutzten Designer Ihre Plattformen, Um Politische und Soziale Aussagen Zu Treffen. Der in New York ansässige Designer Willy Chavarria, Gewinner des CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award, präsentierte seine Kollektion erstmals in Paris, um das zehnjährige Bestehen seines gleichnamigen Labels zu feiern. In the baroque backdrop of the American cathedral, he showed sculptural, reworked tailoring pieces, which were again inspired by his Mexican-American background and appeared in a range of gold, plum and burgundy.

Kaip Chavarria sakė CNN, jo kolekcijos dėmesys buvo sutelktas į atsparumo ir pasipriešinimo centrą. He wanted to formulate a "message for human dignity and equality" and emphasized: "It is important that we come together to keep our rights as a citizen, as immigrants, as LGBTQ people and as women, because we are all very attacked."

The creative duo Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix behind the gender -neutral label Egonlab presented playful Victorian accents and presented clothing that challenged traditional masculinity. Užkulisiuose dizaineriai paaiškino savo dėmesį atskirtoms bendruomenėms. „Mažumos sistemingai užpultos visame pasaulyje“, - sakė jie, paraginti „suvienyti mažumas ir kovoti su nelygybe“.

Mada ir karo protestas

„Comme des Garçons Homme Plus“ japonų dizaineris Rei Kawakubo nagrinėjo karo temą. Ihre Kollektion mit dem Titel „To Hell With War“ präsentierte dekonstruierte militärische Basics, zerschlissene Khaki-Uniformen und Militärstiefel. Models wore newly interpreted helmets that were decorated with flowers and reminded of the Flower power movement of the 1960s and 1970s, in which protesting positive values such as peace and love put in the foreground in their struggle for freedom.

Charlesas Jeffrey, Londono mados namų Charleso Jeffrey Loverboy įkūrėjas, įkvėpė „Weimar Cabarets“ Berlyne. With exaggerated stage make-up, homoerotic, banana-shaped accessories and a shell-like effect on the clothing, the designer-who opened the show in high-heels and spoke to the audience-embodied the roots of his brand in nightlife culture. For Jeffrey it was "an opportunity to bring people together ... when right -wing governments say: 'There are only two genders' ... we are a variety of things."

žvilgsnis į mados užkulisius

Some designers chose an introspective approach and focused on the stories that are embedded in clothing and tailor details, which are often overlooked in cameras. Dior's collection referred to the H-line that its founder Christian Dior designed for the autumn winter 1954-1955-a controversial silhouette at the time, since its flat form of some was perceived as inevitable. In einem filmischen Setting traten Models mit dramatisch bedeckten Augen auf, ganz im Stil von Stanley Kubricks erotischem Psychodrama „Eyes Wide Shut“ von 1999. Die Kollektion experimentierte zudem mit kontrastierenden Volumina von weiten männlichen Röcken bis zu Opernmänteln und mit zart rosa schleifen.

Bianca Saunders, the first black British designer who won the renowned andam fashion price, looked at the tension between restriction and movement as well as between smoothness and strict. Marškiniai buvo susmulkinti, kelnių siūlės pasisuko ir surišo kulkšnis.

Inspired by Robert Longo's photography, which captures men and women in exaggerated, wounded movements, she noted that it inspired by “the very structural men's fashion that was pushed and pulled, and all this subtle turning of things ... the adherence to movement and slowness in the garment."

amatininkai ir eksperimentai taip pat buvo Ricko Owenso šou „Palais de Tokyo“ dėmesys. Treu seinem stil verzerrte ir übertrieb owens körperformen und Spielte radikal mit techniken und texturen. The "DracuCollar" jackets made of waxed leather, "Megacrust" jeans with a crust that is achieved by pressing bronze film and wax on Denim, and even Kempel, an environmentally friendly and subversive material that is also known as "dead hair". Kaip dažnai su Owensu, mada nežino jokių apribojimų.