Mood ja poliitika tulevad kokku Pariisi meeste moenädalal

Mood ja poliitika tulevad kokku Pariisi meeste moenädalal

The Paris Fashion Week for men's fashion began one day after the second inauguration of US President Donald Trump and in the course of the growing influence of the populist right in France. Sellistes tingimustes võib keskendumine rõivastele esialgu tunduda triviaalne.

Sotsiaalsed probleemid fookus

Sellegipoolest näitasid disainerid kogu nädala jooksul oma pühendumust suurematele sotsiaalsetele probleemidele. They addressed inclusivity, protection and freedom and messengers for the autumn winter 2025 season a platform to both relax and present ideas to deal with the current social climate.

Willy Chavarria poolt Egonlabisse Comme des Garçons Homme Plus saadeti ühendussõnumeid ja aktsepteerimist kõnniteede üle. Carole Boinet, director of the French cultural magazine Les Inrockuptibles, told CNN: "If the French population feels more and more powerless in view of the government, the soft power of fashion, as industrial and art, lies in its ability to produce new discourses and pictures and influence other industries."

Kaasaegsed tööriided tõlgendasid

Kõttidel tähistasid tööriided tagasitulekut, tõlgendasid ja liideti kaasaegsete riidekappidega. Hairy models in checkered shirts and raw denim fabrics ran over the catwalk of Junya Watanabe and reminded of the 2010 hipster aesthetics, which was found in youth subcultures and became a global phenomenon.

But it was the "good old work clothes that was originally produced for forest workers", as noted in the show notes that the Japanese designer had in mind. Kollektsioon kajastas hooaja teemasid: ülerõivaste olemus ja funktsionaalsus.

At Louis Vuitton, the creative director of men's fashion, Pharrell Williams, worked with Nigo, the designer of Kenzo and founder of the Japanese brand A Bathing Ape. Nad kavandasid kollektsiooni, mis ühendas tööriided ja spordiriietused. Inspired by the practical wardrobes of engineers, chefs and gardeners, the clothes included an indigo-blue, double buttoned denim jacket, a striped box-cut ensemble and a baby-colored sleeveless blouson jacket, which was also elegant and practical at the same time.

protesti etapp

Nädala jooksul kasutasid disainerid oma platvorme poliitiliste ja sotsiaalsete avalduste tegemiseks. The designer Willy Chavarria, who is based in New York,, winner of the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award, presented his collection for the first time in Paris to celebrate the tenth anniversary of his label of the same name. In the baroque backdrop of the American cathedral, he showed sculptural, reworked tailoring pieces, which were again inspired by his Mexican-American background and appeared in a range of gold, plum and burgundy.

Nagu Chavarria CNN -ile ütles, oli tema kollektsiooni keskmes vastupidavuse ja vastupanu keskmes. He wanted to formulate a "message for human dignity and equality" and emphasized: "It is important that we come together to keep our rights as a citizen, as immigrants, as LGBTQ people and as women, because we are all very attacked."

The creative duo Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix behind the gender -neutral label Egonlab presented playful Victorian accents and presented clothing that challenged traditional masculinity. Kulisside taga selgitasid disainerid oma keskendumist tõrjutud kogukondadele. "Vähemusi rünnatakse süstemaatiliselt kogu maailmas," ütlesid nad, et "ühendada vähemused ja võidelda ebavõrdsuse vastu".

fashion and war protest

Comme des Garçons Homme Pluss tegeles Jaapani disainer Rei Kawakubo sõjateemaga. Teie kollektsioon pealkirjaga "Hell with War" esitas dekonstrueeritud sõjalised põhitõed, rebenenud khaki vormiriietused ja sõjalised saapad. Models wore newly interpreted helmets that were decorated with flowers and reminded of the Flower power movement of the 1960s and 1970s, in which protesting positive values such as peace and love put in the foreground in their struggle for freedom.

Charles Jeffrey oli inspireeritud Berliini Weimari kabareedest. With exaggerated stage make-up, homoerotic, banana-shaped accessories and a shell-like effect on the clothing, the designer-who opened the show in high-heels and spoke to the audience-embodied the roots of his brand in nightlife culture. For Jeffrey it was "an opportunity to bring people together ... when right -wing governments say: 'There are only two genders' ... we are a variety of things."

pilk moe kulisside taga

Some designers chose an introspective approach and focused on the stories that are embedded in clothing and tailor details, which are often overlooked in cameras. Dior's collection referred to the H-line that its founder Christian Dior designed for the autumn winter 1954-1955-a controversial silhouette at the time, since its flat form of some was perceived as inevitable. Models with dramatically covered eyes appeared in a cinematic setting, in the style of Stanley Kubrick's erotic psychodrama "Eyes Wide Shut" from 1999. The collection also experimented with contrasting volumes from wide male skirts to opera stuffs and grinding with tender pink.

Bianca Saunders, the first black British designer who won the renowned andam fashion price, looked at the tension between restriction and movement as well as between smoothness and strict. Särgid kortsus, pükste õmblused pöörasid ja sõlmisid pahkluusid.

Inspired by Robert Longo's photography, which captures men and women in exaggerated, wounded movements, she noted that it inspired by “the very structural men's fashion that was pushed and pulled, and all this subtle turning of things ... the adherence to movement and slowness in the garment."

Meisterdamine ja katsetamine. Tema stiilile ustav moonutas ja ülevoolu Oweni keha kuju ning mängis radikaalselt tehnikate ja tekstuuridega. The "DracuCollar" jackets made of waxed leather, "Megacrust" jeans with a crust that is achieved by pressing bronze film and wax on Denim, and even Kempel, an environmentally friendly and subversive material that is also known as "dead hair". Kui sageli Owensiga, siis mood ei tunne piire.