The world's northernmost airport has a melting runway

The world's northernmost airport has a melting runway

The frozen expanses of the Arctic are increasingly becoming one of the most sought-after travel destinations in the world. President Donald Trump's interest in purchasing Greenland, as well as Russia and China's growing interest in developing sea routes along Siberia's northern coast, are putting these remote regions in the spotlight.

A surge in adventure

But the Arctic's newfound popularity isn't just about geopolitical issues. Destinations along the Arctic Circle, from Alaska to Lapland, are seeing record visitor numbers as adventurous travelers seek the thrill of exploring our planet's most extreme limits.

A Swedish startup called OceanSky Cruises is even planning luxurious airship trips to the geographic North Pole, although an official launch date has not yet been set.

Svalbard: The northernmost airport in the world

While the summit of our planet may remain out of reach for the average traveler for a long time, there are airlines that are getting surprisingly close. Svalbard Airport, in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, is the northernmost airport in the world with regular commercial flights. Two airlines, SAS and Norwegian, fly year-round between the airport in Longyearbyen, the main settlement on the islands, and mainland Norway, more than 500 miles (800 kilometers) to the south.

The airport also regularly receives charter flights and private jets, so fascinating is its unique geographical location.

An important connection in a fragile region

The Arctic is one of the most environmentally fragile regions in the world and the team at Svalbard Airport has already had its first taste of the effects of climate change. When the 2,300-meter-long runway was built in the early 1970s, no one expected that the layer of permafrost on which it was built would begin to melt. However, that is exactly what is happening now.

Permafrost is defined as ground that remains frozen for at least two years. Heating and melting of permafrost is becoming a significant problem for Svalbard, with the resulting instability and subsidence affecting buildings and infrastructure, as well as increasing the risk of landslides and avalanches.

"During the summer months, we have to carefully check the runway every day because the ground could collapse at any time. This is a challenge that we only expect to get worse over time," said Ragnhild Kommisrud, the airport manager, in a phone call with CNN.

Dependence on coal

It is difficult to overstate how important this airstrip is to Svalbard's approximately 2,500 residents. If the airport were to close, most of their essential supplies would have to be delivered by ship, which could mean a journey of up to two days in each direction. “We always have additional staff and materials here at the airport because if something breaks, we need to be able to repair it ourselves, without outside help,” explains Kommisrud.

Electricity generation has long been a sensitive issue in Svalbard. The local community has a keen interest in preventing global warming and preserving the archipelago's untouched nature. However, until recently, a large portion of the local economy was based almost entirely on coal.

Despite its remoteness, Svalbard is endowed with rich coal deposits adjacent to deep, ice-free fjords, making the region suitable for mining. Under the 1920 Svalbard Treaty, signed by countries including the United States, Japan and many EU countries, Norway has sovereignty over the islands, but other treaty parties also have the right to develop economic activities there.

Over the past decade, Norwegian-operated mines have gradually ceased production. Sveagruva, one of the largest and most productive mines in Svalbard, closed in 2020 and the area was renaturalized. A Russian-run coal-fired power plant in Barentsburg, the island's second-largest settlement, remains open but is expected to reduce production, according to reports.

A switch to renewable energy

With coal largely gone, Svalbard has turned tourism into its main economic activity. "Svalbard used to be an extremely tourist destination aimed at the most adventurous travelers. It is still relatively special, but we are becoming increasingly mainstream," says Ronny Brunvoll, CEO of Visit Svalbard, an association representing over 70 private tourism-related companies.

Summer has traditionally been the peak season, with several cruise ship companies offering expeditions to the region. However, this season is being extended as more people visit Svalbard in the winter to enjoy the Northern Lights, as well as in early spring when the days get longer but outdoor activities such as dog sledding and snowmobiling are still possible.

However, Touring Svalbard comes with some important caveats. Brunvoll warns about the realities on the ground and why visitors should not leave the city without a guide. "There is a very real chance of encountering a polar bear. Also, the weather can change very abruptly. It can be brutal. And if something does happen, don't expect to have a mobile signal in most places. You have to be prepared and know what you're doing."

The dangers of mass tourism are still on everyone's lips. The number of accommodations in Svalbard has been limited to 500 rooms and is expected to remain so for the foreseeable future. Tourism may be Svalbard's new "coal", but both the tourism industry and the authorities seem to be aware of their responsibility to protect the untouched wilderness that makes these islands a fascinating place.